Suiting

Q I think I need you to do a post on the classic business suit because I need to go shopping for one for interviews and I am LOST. --Samantha

Samantha:
There are guidelines in life, and certainly a specific set exists for suiting. Although I probably allow more grace when it comes to all things professionally oriented, I do have my standards.

1. 2 vs 3 button jacket

It is crucial that the stance on your jacket be perfect. Not only will it ensure that the girls are “locked & loaded” (thanks Stacy & Clinton), but it is one of the first things that a potential employer/professional colleague will see. Look in the mirror and put your arm out as if you are going to shake someone’s hand. If you follow the line of sight from your hand, up your arm, to your chest, then up to your face, you realize that the stance of the jacket serves as a frame for your figure and for your face. Whether you wear a button-up or a silk tie-neck under your suiting, the construction and shape of the jacket is of most importance. Two or three buttons is a personal preference (but also one of logistics, see: aforementioned need to lock & load). I prefer a two.

2. Pants AND skirt

Every Magpie needs versatility: it is what we thrive on. This is why I highly suggest that wherever you go to look for suiting, be sure they sell both pants and skirt in the same fabric. On top of that, if the brand carries both a trouser leg and a wide leg pant, as well as a skirt, you’ve hit the suiting holy grail. While the suit you wear will be your first impression in your interview (and therefore must be outstanding) you have to remember that the suit is now a part of your larger wardrobe. Long gone are the days of “interview wear” and “job wear”. In fact, I’ve seen many a girl take her jacket out with her for a night on the town while wearing a slinky top and jeans. Bottom line: the more options, the better. Think about wearing your suiting pant(s) and skirt multiple times throughout the month (or even week, if done craftily). Now think about how many ways you could wear a jacket, skirt, and pant while integrating the rest of your wardrobe. Benefits: less time spent figuring out what to wear in the morning, cheaper dry cleaning bills, more time and money for play.

3. Fabric

The suiting fabric of choice would be a summer weight wool blend. My theory is you can always layer, but you can only take off so many clothes and still be considered socially appropriate. You can purchase a cotton-blend suit (like Banana Republic’s Smart Suit), but you limit your options (e.g., cotton-blend suits tend to show wrinkles more quickly, don’t always travel well, and are usually only weighted appropriately for the South. They do not layer well.)

In my previous life (when I didn’t know any better) I bought a denim suit. It was a perfectly fitting jacket and skirt; the jacket had a zipper (ew) and leopard lining (cute, but professionally inappropriate), and all the hems and seams were contrast stitched (ew). Although I felt very cute while wearing it, I soon realized that a frequent appearance from this suit may lead my boss to realize that (1) I have no taste, (2) I don’t understand the meaning of business professional/casual, and (3) I’m not spending my hard earned money appropriately. Termination? Probably not. Snickering by the water cooler? Definitely.

4. Neutral colors

This should be the easiest rule. Stay with black, brown, grey, tan. My personal preference is a dark mottled grey because it can be worn with black or brown, thus offering you the most options for your money.

5. Subtle or no pattern

I once went to a church in South Dallas where the men and women were wearing suits with half-inch wide stripes (in blaring colors). This is NOT the way to wear a suit (especially if you want to wear it multiple times in a month/week). Stick with a light pinstripe, heathered fabric, or glenplaid.

6. Short sleeves?

The fad this summer was to have suiting with a short (usually puffy-sleeved) jacket. I’m not a fan. Although I believe in the right to bear arms, I do not believe that baring arms in the professional world is always well-accepted. (see: BR) *Note: if you did purchase the short-sleeved jacket, it looks great layered with a thin knit—probably turtleneck or vneck is best…and with jeans.

There is some fear, I am sure, that you will be too well dressed. NONSENSE! You can never be too well dressed or too appropriate. It is ok if you are dressed better than those with whom you are interviewing. If you choose to accept the position, just be sure to tailor your look to fit into their environment. However, this does not mean skimping on what you already know to be true: quality construction and good fabrics are always in style and should not be skimped on.

Remember: your suiting should be classic, wearable, impressionable, but not too memorable because you want to get maximum wear. Your most important professional investment should be the perfectly tailored suit (oh, and your education!).