Suiting

Q I think I need you to do a post on the classic business suit because I need to go shopping for one for interviews and I am LOST. --Samantha

Samantha:
There are guidelines in life, and certainly a specific set exists for suiting. Although I probably allow more grace when it comes to all things professionally oriented, I do have my standards.

1. 2 vs 3 button jacket

It is crucial that the stance on your jacket be perfect. Not only will it ensure that the girls are “locked & loaded” (thanks Stacy & Clinton), but it is one of the first things that a potential employer/professional colleague will see. Look in the mirror and put your arm out as if you are going to shake someone’s hand. If you follow the line of sight from your hand, up your arm, to your chest, then up to your face, you realize that the stance of the jacket serves as a frame for your figure and for your face. Whether you wear a button-up or a silk tie-neck under your suiting, the construction and shape of the jacket is of most importance. Two or three buttons is a personal preference (but also one of logistics, see: aforementioned need to lock & load). I prefer a two.

2. Pants AND skirt

Every Magpie needs versatility: it is what we thrive on. This is why I highly suggest that wherever you go to look for suiting, be sure they sell both pants and skirt in the same fabric. On top of that, if the brand carries both a trouser leg and a wide leg pant, as well as a skirt, you’ve hit the suiting holy grail. While the suit you wear will be your first impression in your interview (and therefore must be outstanding) you have to remember that the suit is now a part of your larger wardrobe. Long gone are the days of “interview wear” and “job wear”. In fact, I’ve seen many a girl take her jacket out with her for a night on the town while wearing a slinky top and jeans. Bottom line: the more options, the better. Think about wearing your suiting pant(s) and skirt multiple times throughout the month (or even week, if done craftily). Now think about how many ways you could wear a jacket, skirt, and pant while integrating the rest of your wardrobe. Benefits: less time spent figuring out what to wear in the morning, cheaper dry cleaning bills, more time and money for play.

3. Fabric

The suiting fabric of choice would be a summer weight wool blend. My theory is you can always layer, but you can only take off so many clothes and still be considered socially appropriate. You can purchase a cotton-blend suit (like Banana Republic’s Smart Suit), but you limit your options (e.g., cotton-blend suits tend to show wrinkles more quickly, don’t always travel well, and are usually only weighted appropriately for the South. They do not layer well.)

In my previous life (when I didn’t know any better) I bought a denim suit. It was a perfectly fitting jacket and skirt; the jacket had a zipper (ew) and leopard lining (cute, but professionally inappropriate), and all the hems and seams were contrast stitched (ew). Although I felt very cute while wearing it, I soon realized that a frequent appearance from this suit may lead my boss to realize that (1) I have no taste, (2) I don’t understand the meaning of business professional/casual, and (3) I’m not spending my hard earned money appropriately. Termination? Probably not. Snickering by the water cooler? Definitely.

4. Neutral colors

This should be the easiest rule. Stay with black, brown, grey, tan. My personal preference is a dark mottled grey because it can be worn with black or brown, thus offering you the most options for your money.

5. Subtle or no pattern

I once went to a church in South Dallas where the men and women were wearing suits with half-inch wide stripes (in blaring colors). This is NOT the way to wear a suit (especially if you want to wear it multiple times in a month/week). Stick with a light pinstripe, heathered fabric, or glenplaid.

6. Short sleeves?

The fad this summer was to have suiting with a short (usually puffy-sleeved) jacket. I’m not a fan. Although I believe in the right to bear arms, I do not believe that baring arms in the professional world is always well-accepted. (see: BR) *Note: if you did purchase the short-sleeved jacket, it looks great layered with a thin knit—probably turtleneck or vneck is best…and with jeans.

There is some fear, I am sure, that you will be too well dressed. NONSENSE! You can never be too well dressed or too appropriate. It is ok if you are dressed better than those with whom you are interviewing. If you choose to accept the position, just be sure to tailor your look to fit into their environment. However, this does not mean skimping on what you already know to be true: quality construction and good fabrics are always in style and should not be skimped on.

Remember: your suiting should be classic, wearable, impressionable, but not too memorable because you want to get maximum wear. Your most important professional investment should be the perfectly tailored suit (oh, and your education!).

Vintage vs. New: The Battle Continues

I will start this blogging adventure with a topic I am very familiar and comfortable with: jewelry.

Just a brief background of myself and my experience with baubles: I have always loved jewelry. Not necessarily in the same way that all little girls liked to dress up and play with their mother's gems, I mean I really love jewelry. So much so that I brought my mother's diamonds and pearls to show and tell in kindergarten, only to have them confiscated by the school nurse (and family friend) and transferred safely back to my mother's hands. So much so that I was started a charm bracelet that was filled up with over 50 charms by the time I graduated from college. So much so that every summer, for six years, on my way to summer camp, my parents would drive through Kerrville, just so we could go to the James Avery home and store. So much so that my first antique auction purchase was a garnet and sapphire vermeil ring that I still wear to this day. So much would be the key phrase. I probably have more rings than I do socks, and more earrings than I do underwear. I wholeheartedly believe that you can change any outfit's intentions with jewelry. You can make jeans and a tshirt sultry and a little black dress simply and day-appropriate. Although Coco Chanel had very good intentions, I do not believe in her "remove one piece of jewelry before you leave your home" rule--I say add, don't detract. The more the better. Layer, stack, bangle. Now, please hear me: I am NOT an overkill kind of girl. I believe jewelry should be worn in moderation, and (of course) in taste. I certainly ascribe to quality over quantity...but sometimes a girl just wants to have fun!

Back to the present. Not only do I love and appreciate new jewelry, I also have a great affinity for the antique/vintage/old. This is where today's post is headed: Do you save for the things of the past? or splurge on the things of the present?

I think you can do both.

Take for example, if you will, my 15 carat smokey topaz that sits high aloft a 14k gold band and swirl setting. (Please note: tasteful 6-prong setting. Quantity and quality are not synonymous when one is choosing a prong setting.) This is a gorgeous cocktail ring, similar to the styles of the 1950s and 1960s, but purchased from an estate containing more pieces from the 1920s and 1930s. This ring is a classic eye-catcher for all the right reasons. It's slightly larger than socially appropriate for day wear, and slightly undersized for typical cocktail, allowing me to wear it day and night. It's classic proportions and timeless style are just as appreciated now as they were then.

In Texas, this is considered a "rang", not a simple ring.

However, such things do not come cheaply. This is why I fully support the current jewelry trend of bringing back vintage at a fraction of the price.

Banana Republic, 18mm smokey topaz and 18k gold-plated brass $49

This is a GREAT alternative to a truly vintage piece, not only because it is priced so well, but because you will be able to wear it for years, and you won't be heartbroken if you break it.

The moral of this story is: purchasing and wearing vintage is great for the environment (it's recycling at its best!). However, when push comes to shove (and the budget is a consideration), well-made imitations of the real thing are certainly a better alternative to nothing at all.